This January marks a poignant chapter in Milan’s menswear fashion week as it unfolds without the legendary presence of Giorgio Armani, who passed away at 91 in September 2025. Despite this significant loss, Armani’s brand will still showcase its collection, scheduled for Monday. Joining Armani in the spotlight are fellow fashion elders Ralph Lauren and Paul Smith, both of whom continue to make their mark in the industry at ages 86 and 80, respectively.
Paul Smith: A Homage to the Past
Paul Smith kicked off the proceedings on Saturday evening at the brand’s Italian headquarters. The event was uniquely engaging as Smith himself took on the role of compère, sharing insights about the designs and their inspirations directly with the audience. His collection, emblematic of his playful aesthetic, included oversized suiting, vibrant sweaters, and striking prints — hallmarks of his brand that have endeared him to fans over the years.
This marked Smith’s second time showcasing menswear in Milan. In a preview of the event, he shared that his compère approach pays tribute to his formative years spent attending the shows of fashion icons Coco Chanel and Yves Saint Laurent in the 1970s. “I really wanted to do a salon show,” Smith noted. “In today’s corporate world, it’s truly interesting to keep it personal, especially since we remain an independent company.”
The inspiration for this latest collection partly stemmed from collaborations with his new design director, Sam Cotton, who delved into the Paul Smith archive containing 5,000 designs. “They’ll come back with pieces that were once groundbreaking and say, ‘Look at this,’” Smith explained. “I respond, ‘I did that in 1982.’ They’ll insist, ‘Yeah, but it’s bloody marvellous,’ and then we rework it.”
Among the standout pieces from Saturday’s show was a jacket first introduced in 1999 and a rust-colored grandad shirt that Smith humorously recounted creating “on a gas cooker in a saucepan.” This blend of youth and history appears strategic, aimed at attracting a new clientele to a brand that has been shaping menswear since 1970.
Challenges in a Post-Pandemic Market
Yet, it’s not all smooth sailing. Like many brands in the luxury sector, Paul Smith faced a downturn post-pandemic, reporting a 7% drop in revenue for 2024. Smith candidly warned of more challenging times ahead, stating, “Our results this year won’t be very good at all. But we’re here, we’re working it out, and we’re going to be fine.” His resilience echoes a broader industry sentiment that is grappling with shifting consumer behaviors and unexpected market pressures.
Ralph Lauren: A Bright Contrast
In stark contrast, Ralph Lauren is enjoying a resurgence, capitalizing on a renewed interest in preppy style, a genre the brand has effectively defined over its nearly 60-year history. Recent reports indicate an 11% sales increase in the first quarter of 2025, with the phrase “Ralph Lauren Christmas” trending during the holiday season. This success was evident at Lauren’s show on Friday evening, which beautifully merged the classic Polo line with the more upscale Purple label.
The runway event felt like a celebration of the brand’s quintessential style, showcasing a range of outfits geared towards affluent lifestyles—from casual weekend wear like fleece jackets and rugby shirts to elegant suits for formal occasions and festive nights at the opera. Although Ralph Lauren was not present, his son David was seen among high-profile attendees, including Tom Hiddleston and Colman Domingo, seated front row at the show held in a palazzo acquired by Ralph Lauren in 1999.
The collection not only highlighted fashion but also celebrated an American archetype that has become synonymous with the brand. Notably, Ralph Lauren is set to return to Milan in February to dress Team USA for the upcoming Winter Olympics, underscoring the brand’s continued influence and prestige on both the runway and the global stage.
As Milan Fashion Week progresses, the legacy of Armani and the innovations of designers like Paul Smith and Ralph Lauren serve as reminders of the ever-evolving landscape of menswear, grappling with tradition while navigating contemporary challenges. For more insights into the world of fashion, follow our coverage on Globally Pulse Entertainment.
